Pic by night86mare
Recently I made my fourth visit to London, this time courtesy of the good folk at CheapOair. (I won a competition that relied on chance and required absolutely no skill. Ego boost activate!)
The trip was of the whirlwind variety — five days — but I still managed to pack in a metric Thames-load of museums, sightseeing and unbridled but culturally contextual binge-drinking. Herewith, some highlights, recommendations, and general jetlag-addled blather.
Museums and galleries
There are some brilliant museums in London, and the vast majority are free. Yep, you don’t have to pay anything to browse the Greek sculptures that Lord Elgin stole carefully and lawfully acquired from the ruins of the Parthenon. Being accustomed to NYC museums like the Met, which makes a very, very strong suggestion that you pay the “donation” of $20, I found this policy rather jarring.
The clump o’ museums along Cromwell Road in Kensington (Natural History Museum; Science Museum; V&A) is well worth a visit. The Darwin Room at the NHM has a bunch of creepy specimens floating in formaldehyde, which you can examine during a private tour. In the Science Museum there are creepy life-size dioramas of 19th century medical procedures. But the best of the bunch is the V&A. Its smartly curated collection features an extraordinary cast court, which has plaster versions of European sculptures, tombs and architectural details. The most impressive is Trajan’s column, built in Rome in AD 113. They had to split it in two to fit it in the room. I mean, come on. Amazing.
Trajan’s column at the V&A Cast Court. Unwashed nerd in foreground for scale.
As for other museums worth a look-in, The British Museum is your one-stop mummy shop. In addition to having an array of ancient Egyptian sarcophagi, desiccated body bits and decorative scarabs, it hosts the Rosetta Stone. The Tate Modern has the stuff that makes you say “I don’t get this; I hate it”, or “I don’t get this; I love it”. The Imperial War Museum in Lambeth is affecting — the Blitz and Holocaust exhibits will silence you into solemnity and bring home the meaning of holidays like ANZAC Day and Memorial Day.
On the opposite end of the spectrum is the Saatchi Gallery in Chelsea. The works within its walls are frequently anarchic and witty and it makes for a great palate cleanser if you’ve been traipsing around museums all day. The best artwork at the moment is by Richard Wilson: an entire room filled to waist-deep height with sump oil. You observe it from a platform, and for the first few minutes you have no idea what you’re looking at. The surface looks solid but reflective. Then you start to see ripples and realise the entire thing is liquid. Reader, it blew my mind.
Hug a Londoner today!
Nature and all that
London, your parks are impressive. Well done. There are also a lot of them. And they are huge. Regent’s Park, Hyde Park and Hampstead Heath are all so very English. The deck chairs, the rowboats, the manicured rose gardens, the ponds that people bathe in when it reaches a balmy 15 degrees Celcius: this is the Britain I came to see. Though the grit of New York has its charms, the sheer prettiness of these verdant enclaves is sigh-worthy.
But even when I’m on vacation, I like to remind myself regularly that I am going to die. It’s just part of the ol’ routine, you know? So I took a stroll through Brompton Cemetery. It’s peaceful and mossy and overgrown but not at all eerie. People ride their bikes along the paths. There was even a girl playing catch with her dad when I was there. I’m sure the residents didn’t mind.
This concludes your daily memento mori. Thank you for visiting Brompton Cemetery.
Social graces
There are a few things about London that you can appreciate no matter where you venture to within the city. The first is the prevailing civility. This is different to what I’m used to, both in my adopted home and my original one. New York is brash and wild and get-outta-my-way-already. Similarly, one of Australia’s hallmarks — many would call it a virtue — is the very casual manner in which people converse with one another. This can be seen in fleeting encounters (bus drivers, waitstaff) as well as with friends, and even between different levels of the workplace hierarchy. There is a lot of fast-tracked familiarity when it comes to addressing people, as evidenced in the fact that anyone whose name cannot be recalled is referred to as “mate”.
By contrast, your average London encounter is shrouded in social decency. People on the street, cashiers and train announcers get all Jane Austen on you, politely offering phrases like “I’m terribly sorry” and “Do bear with me for a spell while I extract this bandsaw from the gaping wound in my torso”. Such considerate language denotes respect and a certain reserved approach that I find most alluring. It reminds me of that scene between Mr. Darcy and Elizabeth near the end of Pride and Prejudice where they are confessing their mutual desire to hook up, couched in such beautifully restrained lines as “You must allow me to tell you how ardently I admire and love you.” Oh YES, YOU MUST. Hot.
Call when you want, but there’s no one home, and you’re not gonna reach my telephone.
Supermarket food
However undeserved, England has a reputation for awful cuisine. But there is one ares in which it excels: decent lazy-single-person food. Oh, my word. Just drop into an M&S Simply Food or check out the organic readimeals from Sainsbury’s and Waitrose. Unlike New York supermarkets, where high-fructose corn syrup reigns supreme, you will find delicious, fresh things that your lazy ass can eat straight out of the box. If you are like me (non house-trained, more inclined to spend time dancing to Lady Gaga in your living room than bother whipping up a quick paella), London is your lazebot mecca. I was enraptured by the array of gastronomic offerings that require little to no effort expenditure before being transported from fork to mouth.
Thus ends my meandering trip report. Thank you, people of London, for showing me a good time. I will be back.
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